Has anyone ever successfully installed a hardwood floor (solid type) in a basement


Darling , Sunday, 8th of August 2010 06:49:13 PM

l have a basement in Philadelphia that has a french drain all the way 
Darling
around.l laid down roofing paper on the concrete floor as a vapor barrier 
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and then screwed down 1/4'' plywood over the concrete and then nailed down 
Joined: Sunday, 16th of May 2010, 02:30:56
3/4'' plywood on top of the 1/4'' plywood.Everything seems dry and the 
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basement is a fairly dry.

l do not want tile or 
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carpet.Furthermore, l do not like engineered wood or floating floors as l 
think both are cheap looking.And l do not see why solid hardwood over 2 
layers of plywood over 1 layer of a vapor barrier is really all that 
different from an engineered floor.After all, an engineered floor is 
basically a wood veneer over plywood.

Anyway, I am really 
looking for stories of people that have tried solid hardwood flooring in a 
basement setting, how they did it (floor prep, subflooring, vapor barrier, 
etc), and if it was successful or not.

I've already read, ad 
nauseum, about all the reasons one should use an engineered or floating 
floor instead of hardwood.So any comments of that nature wo not be helpful 
to me.

The following 2 articles hint that it perhaps can been 
done successfully:
/>http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/basements/msg0811302730713.html />(see comment from yaknakterry)
/>http://local.centralvalleybusinesstimes.com/Flooring_Options_Stockton_CA-r1242023-Stockton_CA.html/>(see last sentences of hardwood flooring section)

So does 
anyone have experience (good or bad) with putting down solid hardwood 
flooring in a basement setting?
 
 
 
 
 

Musica , Monday, 9th of August 2010 03:24:04 AM

this is why it was better to have real professionals rather  
Musica
than a bunch of retards at home depot! you HAVE to put down some type of  
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strapping before building ur sub-floor. i did brazillian cherry in a  
Joined: Saturday, 15th of May 2010, 00:40:12
basement in mi & i got my info from old, wise guys who did wood floors  
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their whole lives. we are getting rid of those people by the millions so  
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good luck with that but you need at least 2x2 is on the vapor barrier  
before you lay plywood or whatever. i wouldn't use plywood though. it is  
all about holding fasteners & plywood is a very poor substitute for solid  
wood. i don't even use plywood as a roof deck because i build permanent  
roofs. if you don't do this properly then you are completely wasting ur  
time & money. stop disrespecting SKILLED trades, believe it or not, they  
really do require SKILL.  
 
 
 
 
 

Relishh=) , Tuesday, 10th of August 2010 12:19:17 PM

At this point what I would do is seal up the Plywood, then  
Relishh=)
install the floor. The next & most important thing you can do to have  
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piece of mind is to get a great dehumidifier. Mold can not grow if you  
Joined: Monday, 19th of April 2010, 16:47:48
keep the relative humidity below 55%. This will also keep the hard wood  
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floors moisture content low. You can have the unit installed in an  
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unfinished area & have it ducted in to the finished area with grates on  
the walls. Same as you would in the upstairs.  
 
The other thing you may want to consider is a battery back up for ur pump  
assuming you have one as you mentioned french drains. This way you can  
have piece of mind even with a power failure that the basement will not  
flood. Here is a link to a good dehumidifier.  
 
http://basementsystems.com/dehumidifier.html#  
 
 
 
 
 

emo princess , Wednesday, 11th of August 2010 09:45:45 AM

I put a Mountain Ash(hardwood) floor in a ski lodge a few years  
emo princess
ago to allow water seepage to go to the french drain at one end of the  
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basement as there seemed to be no way to absolutely stop the seepage  
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during the spring thaw .  
Posts: 1084
Over your vapour barrier, and on top of the 3/4 ply, lay some joists  
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http://awc.org/calculators/span/calc/timbercalcstyle.asp and then fix the  
flooring . The floor I laid has now seen 3 spring thaws and seem ok .  
 
Kindest John  
 
 
 
 
 

Jiffy , Thursday, 12th of August 2010 10:23:49 AM

I have not experienced this application. But I know their is  
Jiffy
multiple environments, which play a part of the issue.  
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Keep your environment dry. Even the humidity. I then, believe your project  
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is a success.  
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Goober / Goob , Friday, 13th of August 2010 10:36:05 AM

I hate to tell you this but, unless you laid down waterproofed  
Goober / Goob
furring & channeled it to drainage, what you've done so far isn't going to  
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be sufficient for any kind of floor covering. What you've done will last  
Joined: Friday, 7th of May 2010, 16:18:55
for a while but, it is going to take moisture & it is going to need to be  
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replaced in a matter of a few years (if that). Beyond getting the  
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sub-floor right (and you use polyethylene, not roofing paper) you would  
need to waterproof the backs of ur floorboards.with mastic. The boards  
cannot take ANY moisture.  
Honestly, on big jobs like this, you really need to actually talk to  
professionals.and for this kind of work, ''old-timers'' at that.  
 
My condolences, Number6  
 
 
 
 
 



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