i am going to install hardwood floors myself, but don't know how.
Bug
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Friday, 6th of August 2010 06:35:44 AM
l am going to buy some hardwood, my floor right now is old wood and is Bug uneven so l am going to put another layer of plywood sheets on it to make Registered User it even and then l do not know how to begin and what tools l need to do Joined: Sunday, 13th of June 2010, 15:47:20 this project.
Posts: 501 Viewed 15912 times
Jazzy/Jazzie
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Saturday, 7th of August 2010 11:38:23 PM
hire a proffessional. i have been a hardwood installer for 7 Jazzy/Jazzie years & cant count already the number times a home handyman has tried & Registered User failed & called me to come fix his mess. if you must do it yourself this Joined: Thursday, 3rd of June 2010, 11:00:37 is how Posts: 1365 Viewed 6812 times 1)tear out the old wood so that you can staple the new wood directly onto
subfloor.
2)get all neccessary tools (chop saw, table saw, jig saw, compressor,
hardwood stapler, 18 or 16 gauge brad nailer, air hoses, rubber mallet,
sliding square, chalk line, large flat head screwdriver, caulking gun &
tubes of pl400 or pl premium, squeeze bottle of carpenters glue)
3)begin by figuring out which direction the floor will be running,
it needs to go perpendicular to the floor joists
4)pick the longest wall in the house that the floor will run parallel to &
make a mark on the floor 12'' off the wall at both ends. snap a chalk line
to connect the 2 points. measure to opposite wall to determine squarness
of the room you are in & adjust chalk line to get it as parallel to both
walls as possible
5)pick enough long (3' & over) boards that are straight to make 2 full
rows along ur starting wall. put a heavy squiggle of the pl glue thats 2
boards wide. place ur first row in the glue parallel to the chalk line you
made & use the brad nailer to toe nail into the top of the tongue on the
board at a downward angle to fasten it in place. contine brad nailing
rows until you have enough room from the wall to fit the big stapler
on.begin stapling boards into place trying to keep joins between boards in
adjacent rows at least 6-8''appart.
6)when you come up to a wall, staple as close to the wall as you can
(should be about a foot away from the wall) now continue by using the brad
nailer & nailing into the tongues of the boards again until you are about
8'' (2-3 rows) from the wall. put a heavy squiggle of the pl glue again &
sqeeze some carpenters glue into the groove of the board you are going to
place. pull the board in the glue tight. if you cant, then use the big
flat head screw driver & pound it into the subfloor & use it to pry the
board tight.
7)for the last row measure & mark the width you need & cut it on the table
saw to be about 1/8 to 1/4'' skinnier that the gap you need to fill. rip
it down with the tablesaw at a 15 degree angle, cutting the bottom side of
the board skinnier than the top. this will allow you to just rock it into
place against the wall. get some wooden shims or make some wedges & pry
the last row tight then pound wedges in agianst the wall to hold it tight
until the glue sets.
also everyone who says to put tar paper or whatever under the wood to help
it ''slide'' when it expands or contracts or to prevent moisture are wrong.
1)how is a board with multiple 2'' staples in it going to do any sliding?
2)what moisture? from where? the wood should have already been in the
house acclimating with the humidifier on. & anyways hardwood doesnt really
absorb moisture into the side of the grain. the absorbing happens at the
end of the boards where you can see the open grain.
thats all there is to it
evil dog
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Sunday, 8th of August 2010 10:59:31 PM
Not to sure about the actual installation, but for finishing evil dog with an outstanding shine to your new timber floor, try Tuff Coat Registered User Polyurethane. This product is a single pack (pour direct from can) Joined: Saturday, 22nd of May 2010, 03:04:05 polyurethane with a solid content of 70%. Further information can be found Posts: 665 at web page below. Viewed 7813 times
Tinka Butt
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Monday, 9th of August 2010 12:29:16 PM
http://zickgraf.com/installation_easyCare/ Tinka Butt Registered User Joined: Wednesday, 16th of June 2010, 18:36:29 Posts: 873 Viewed 14120 times
Bella <3
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Tuesday, 10th of August 2010 12:47:45 PM
Umpteen years ago [ 1960's] I used Bruce Hardwood flooring & it Bella <3 look beautiful when finished. Comes in random lengths from one foot to Registered User eight feet. This flooring is nailed down with a nail that looks like a Joined: Tuesday, 27th of April 2010, 22:12:42 ''J''. There was a tool that was available to set the nails at just the Posts: 1069 right angle while driving the pieces up tight to the next one. I haven't Viewed 3096 times looked at it but go to ~~~ bruce.com ~~~ & check the web site.
This is 3/4 hardwood oak & when finished you just wipe up the dust & put
the furniture back in place or whatever.
``
Terr
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Wednesday, 11th of August 2010 08:45:47 PM
Engineered, or solid wood? Engineered (like Pergo) used to be Terr a glue-up installation. But today, it is almost universally click-lock, & Registered User is installed in what is called a ''floating installation'' (not fastened to Joined: Wednesday, 2nd of June 2010, 08:43:53 the floor - basically a wood area rug). This is relatively easy, & the Posts: 194 most common DIY flooring. Solid wood flooring is nailed in place, & Viewed 18418 times requires a compressor & special flooring nailer (available for rent at
Lowes/HomeDepot).
Here is a web page that really covers all the gotcha is & details that
most of the DIY sites don't mention. While this covers a nailed-in
installation, the same process applies to a click-lock (minus the nails).
http://hammerzone.com/archives/flooring/hardwood/wh_oak1/stapled.htm
On the subject of the existing flooring- Contrary to what some people
have said here, a flat floor is VERY important -- especially with a
floating floor (too much give & you will break the thin click-lock
tongues). If I recall correctly, tolerance is something like 3/16'' over
an 4' span. If you've got solid wood floors that are really off, a layer
of underlayment is the way to go.
If you're talking about an existing plywood subfloor, you may or may not
need to put a second layer on it. If you've got ridges where two sheets
meet, use a circular saw set to 3/4'' deep, & score along the seams to
create a gap between the sheets. Buckling along the seams is caused by
the individual sheets expanding & causing the edges to buckle (there is
supposed to be an 1/8 but a lot of builders are lazy & figure the carpet
will cover any problems).
Whether or not you're putting down new subfloor, if you've got low spots
(caused by a bow in the floor joists), you've got to level them off.
Specifically, I am talking about localized dips with a couple foot radius
or less. Use pieces of roofing felt to fill in any dips, bringing them up
to the level of the surrounding area. For significant dips, I use cut-up
asphalt shingles because it is about four times as thick as the roofing
felt, so I don't have to use as many layers to fill in the dip. What
you're trying to achieve is a FLAT subfloor, so the final flooring isn't
flexing everytime you walk on it. Leveling the floor is nice, but it is
not important to the life of the flooring. Flatness is the critical
factor. Dips in the subfloor is what will cause engineered flooring to
break & solid wood flooring to pop nails.
mIsS sMiLeY!!
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Thursday, 12th of August 2010 06:34:44 AM
Really not that difficult, You need to rent a tool that sets mIsS sMiLeY!! the nails & clamps the joints together. Make sure you let the new flooring Registered User set in the room you will be installing it in for a few days. This will Joined: Thursday, 17th of June 2010, 00:53:06 allow the wood to expand or contract to the conditions of the room. If the Posts: 511 wood is to green when you install it is will shrink as it dries & you will Viewed 17164 times end up with gaps in the joints. If too dry, it may absorb moisture & could
cause the planks to bulge. When you drive in the nails dont rely on the
plywood, be sure to nail into the studs with a long finish nail
J.D
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Friday, 13th of August 2010 04:57:54 PM
You wont need to put down new plywood over ur old wood J.D flooring. By the time you add that & then additional layer of prime wood Registered User floor, you will have to cut all ur doors down over an inch. Give or take. Joined: Sunday, 13th of June 2010, 00:19:51 You can put a layer of the foam if its a floating floor that is only 1/4 Posts: 623 inch. The unevenness wont likely show if you lay the new floor in the Viewed 15932 times opposite direction as the old floor. If its buckled saw a relief & beat it
down.
Here I put a layer of roof tar paper (1/8 ''or so) down first. Butted
the sides & taped them. This prevents moisture getting thru as well as
insulates for sound & climate. It also prevents the two floors coming in
contact & squeaking.
If you install refinished floor its pretty easy if you rent the right
tools. Follow the directions from the manufacturer. They all have DVDs.
Good luck
budda butt
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Saturday, 14th of August 2010 07:01:17 AM
take a class at Lowe is .this will help you budda butt Registered User Joined: Sunday, 9th of May 2010, 04:44:55 Posts: 494 Viewed 13964 times
MUNCH-MUNCH?
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Sunday, 15th of August 2010 10:32:33 AM
Check out places like Home Depot or Lowe's. They usually have MUNCH-MUNCH? free instruction classes on all kinds of home repair/improvements. Registered User Joined: Monday, 24th of May 2010, 10:59:25 Posts: 986 Viewed 13216 times
Babi Bash!!
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Monday, 16th of August 2010 06:06:28 AM
It is time consuming but doable. Hard on the back and knees. Babi Bash!! It is technically complex and requires special tools that can be rented. Registered User Buy a good book, Amazon.com would have them on how to do this. Joined: Sunday, 30th of May 2010, 18:27:01 Posts: 1187 Viewed 4349 times
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